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Heimia salicifolia or Sinicuichi is a perennial shrub native from Mexico to Argentina. In nature, the shrubs will reach 10 feet (~3.3 m) tall with an equal spread. The opposite linear-lanceolate will reach up to 3.5 inches (9 cm) long. The plant has been used medicinally since the times of the Aztecs; shamans still revere its properties today. They are hardy in USDA zones 9-11.
Soil Considerations: Heimia salicifolia needs full sun to partial shade, with a moist, rich, well-drained soil mix. In the greenhouse, we use a soil mix consisting of 2 parts peat moss to 1 part loam to 1 part sand and perlite. To every 0.01 cu yards of mix we add 2 cups of 14-14-14 Osmocote slow release fertilizer. The plants are kept moist for optimum growth and fertilized weekly during the growing season with a balanced fertilizer. The soil must always be fine, damped down slightly with a flat, hard object such as a rock when first planting the seeds.
During the winter months, temperatures are allowed to drop to 55°F (13°C) at night. During this period, water is somewhat restricted, but the plants should never be allowed to dry out completely. One should take care if the plants are used in the landscape, as they can become very weedy; constant trimming of seed capsules helps.
Propagation: Heimia salicifolia plants may be propagated from cuttings, layers and from seed. Seeds, if kept refrigerated, will last up to about a year, but germination rate drops off significantly after about 6 months, regardless of storage conditions. Sinicuichi seeds have the best chance of sprouting when sown in seedbeds or pots. This is convenient for aspiring Shaman with indoor gardens. One of the things I can’t stress enough with Sinicuichi cultivation is moisture, moisture, moisture! – These plants aren’t nearly as finicky as Salvia divinorum plants, but, like another favorite here at the shop; Kratom (Mitragyna speciosa), these plants like to be kept in greenhouse conditions.
The more seeds the better, since germination rates are at about 30% for seeds, so when they are planted, take care to press each seed into the soil individually. I like to use my index finger, and vary the depth by pushing some seeds down to the end of my fingernail, and others, just slightly under the surface.
This is a CRITICAL sowing tip, learned from many failed attempts at growing this plant that I personally adore for so many reasons: Do NOT POUR water onto the seeds in any way. Don’t use a watering can, don’t let the seeds enjoy a nice rain, down take your pots and stick them under the faucet. Sinicuichi seeds, for whatever reason, seem to like to be misted, and misted only. As I said earlier, do your best to keep the soil moistened, but not soaking wet.
Sunlight: Also, another tip that I have found through extensive “trial-and-error” is this: Strangely enough, the plant nicknamed “Sun Opener” doesn’t seem to like direct sunlight of any kind while the seeds are germinating. As soon as you get past the initial stage where there are leaves that are obviously Sinicuichi leaves appear, you can give it more sunshine and can keep the soil more watered, but until then, just keep your germinating seeds out of the sun, and only moistened, rather than soaking wet.
Then, once you’re confident that your plant is growing (usually when it reaches at least 6” tall or more), then you can be more liberal with the sunlight and water. Sinicuichi seeds, once germinated, develop quite a large root system, so not only make sure you give the roots enough room to grow in whatever space you germinate your seeds in, but never put the seeds to close together when planting, so there isn’t any entanglement when trying to separate or transplant the seedlings.
Flowers: Plants typically start blooming in the early spring and blooms until late fall. Bright yellow 0.75 inch (2 cm) flowers are found in leaf axils.
Good luck, and let me know of any personal experiences you have by writing me; Bodhi, at shamanelf at shamansgarden dot com whenever you wish. |
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